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From Bob Braid

I thought I would touch base with you on my experience with the Jones counter.

As discussed a while ago, I have been looking for a solution for the broken tangs and I now fit the Jones counter as shown on the attached. I have a wheel that is permanently fitted with the Jones counter that I just keep for measuring...this wheel is perfectly trued, has axle exposed on both sides for the fork to sit on and no more problems with the Jones counter breaking for nearly 12 months now.

I have another wheel that I use on the same bike for normal riding. I have given the attached fitting instructions to Dave Cundy for distribution to the other Aussie measurers.



JONES COUNTER IDEAL FITTING INSTRUCTIONS
(Based on the current Jones Counter design as at June 2014)


1. TO PREVENT THE TANG BREAKING, THE MAXIMUM DISTANCE FROM THE CHASSIS COG TO THE POINT OF CONTACT OF THE TANG ON TO THE SPOKE IS 3mm.

IF THE TANG EXTENSION IS REQUIRED, THEN COUNTER CHASSIS IS TOO FAR AWAY FROM THE POINT OF CONTACT ON THE SPOKE.

THIS MAY REQUIRE THE LOCKING NUT TO BE REMOVED.

2. FOR RIDING SAFETY, THE FORK MUST BE RESTING ON AT LEAST SOME PART OF THE AXLE ON BOTH SIDES.

3. THE IDEAL SETUP IS TO HAVE THE COUNTER CHASSIS POSITIONED BETWEEN THE LOCKING NUT AND THE AXLE CONE, THEN THE WHEEL CENTRED BETWEEN THE OUTSIDE OF THE LOCKING NUT ON BOTH SIDES (as shown above). THIS MAY REQUIRE ASSISTANCE FROM A BIKE MECHANIC.

IN THE ABOVE EXAMPLE, THE WHEEL HAS BEEN RADIALLY SPOKED WITH THE SPOKES PROTRUDING ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE HUB FLANGE RATHER THAN THE NORMAL WAY WHERE THE SPOKES PROTRUDE FROM THE INSIDE OF THE FLANGE (this also makes the wheel stronger but perhaps not as aesthetically pleasing). THE REASON FOR THIS IS TO REDUCE THE DISTANCE FROM THE PONT OF CONTACT WITH THE TANG AND THE SPOKE TO THE CHASSIS COG.

4. IDEALLY, THE COUNTER COG SHOULD FIT AS DEEP AS POSSIBLE INTO THE CHASSIS COG VALLEYS.

PLEASE NOTE THAT THESE INSTRUCTIONS ARE NOT FROM THE JONES COUNTER SUPPLIERS BUT DEVELOPED AS A POSSIBLE SOLUTION TO BROKEN TANGS.
Last edited {1}
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I was reading by the front window yesterday and saw a familiar-looking biker ride by. I thought it was Dave Heithaus, who frequently uses the calibration course in front of my home, but when I went outside to say hello I found it was Walt Neubauer, a measurer I didn’t know. He had a nice bike, but I noticed right away what a nice job he had made of installing his counter.

The tang on the counter didn’t quite reach, so he used a push-on electrical connector, and created a surrounding structure of insulated electrical wire to support the tang nicely. He did it so that the wheel could be removed from the bike and replaced without undoing the support structure.
Below you can see how he rigged his hub and counter.




Last edited by peteriegel
I would like to sincerely thank Bob for providing this contribution. I am remiss for not doing so earlier.


A paragraph has been added to my on-line mounting instructions to address the issues of axle, and tang engagement. I am reluctant to give out proper instructions on how to adjust the bearing cones, and I believe the issue of tang breakage has been solved. I have given hints to the option in a recent revision to the website, with other hints that the bike should be taken to a bike shop if difficulty with installation is experienced. They possess the tools, and skills to make the proper adjustment.

This procedure does produce a very elegant installation.

This solution also goes part of the way to addresses the nagging fact the OLD (Over Locknut Distance) is fixed. In the USA there is 100mm between the forks when the bike leaves the factory. There isn't 2mm extra space to fit in a JR. Nor a JO, JOL, nor the original Jonescounter. Forks are tending to be stiffer, and it can be hard to get 2mm in there. A quick-release engages 4mm on each side, with nothing extra.

If the chassis / cup were made from more substantial material it would not fit at all.
Last edited by tomriegel

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