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Disc brakes are NOT an issue when using my cable driven counter. I have made up a few counter set ups using the Veeder Root counter 745825, which spins counter clockwise allowing the gear drive to be mounted on the right side of the wheel hub. Without disc brakes or center pull brakes, I can run a counter set up on either of the wheel hub. Most disc brake set ups are on the left side of the front wheel hub.
Tom and I have had to deal with this a lot in our counter-supply business. Counter customers who want to order a right-hand mount counter ask us if it will fit. We tell them we don’t know. It depends on the diameter of the hub flange. The most common flange has a diameter of about 2 inches, and this is the diameter that the counter is designed for. If the flange has a bigger diameter, some cobbling by the owner may be necessary.

The presence of the brake disk assembly is generally on the left hand side of the wheel as it’s ridden, and has no effect on counter operation.

As much as we would like to have a one-size-fits-all counter, it’s just not feasible, so we aimed for the most common hub size.

We have suggested purchasing a cheap front wheel with a 2 inch hub, and using it as the wheel of choice while measuring. I have not heard yet that anyone has done this. Considering that riding speed should not exceed 15 mph, the lack of a front brake is not much of problem. I never used my front brake while measuring anyway.
I have disk brakes on my bike. Since I only use the bike for measuring I don't have to take the counter off and on so I just added some shims to realign the brakes and both the brakes and the Jones Counter have worked well.

Pete, I am not sure I would want to run without front brakes since you need to lock the front wheel for many measuring maneuvers.

Renewal of an old subject.  Modern bikes with disc brakes have a wide variety of front forks and wheel hubs.  I think the right hand mount JR counter has the best chance.  The left hand counter runs backward when mounted on the right.  I suppose that no accuracy is lost, but the arithmetic becomes tricky. Also many newer bikes have various do-dads on the fork ends, many associated with disc brakes.  The only answer I can think of is to bring the JR counter to the bike shop when shopping.  Any one have any other advice?  Pete Reigel used to have photos of what worked, anyone have photos of what won't work?

I just got a new bike. I took my handlebar Jones/Lucas counter to the shop when I went to pick up the bike, and I had the capable mechanic install it. Since this is my first bike with disc brakes, the counter had to be placed on the other side, so the numbers run backwards. I measured a 5K a couple of days ago with no issues with the numbers. I can see where measuring longer courses may require some more careful "bookkeeping" while measuring with numbers running in reverse. But so far, so good.

Some Electric assist bikes use a 15mm or larger "Through bolt" axle. Often they also utilize a large flange hub.

A standard Jones counter will work for these applications BUT only after the counter is modified. Modification requires enlarging the center hole (usually to 17+mm) and removing and replacing the drive tang on the large gear. Enlarging the center causes the chassis to come apart. Reassembly is accomplished by use of a 2 part adhesive. The tang is replaced by welding a piece of a bike spoke long enough to clear the front hub.

This works well, but it does require some labor and is a special order item.

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