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We will be needing to reorder supplies at some point in the distant future and are considering making a revision to the design.

The JR in its present form behaves very well and we are reluctant to make any changes. The only difference will be to extend the drive tang to be approximately 1" long.

We are in the beginning stages, but the initial concept looks workable. It will require modifications to the existing tooling, and a few hard-riding folks willing to test them quickly before introducing them into the "product stream".

The prototypes will not be available for a couple months. In the mean time I would like to find about a dozen people willing to ride with them without risking data. You must NEED to use the wire extension in order to test it.

I would also be interested in soliciting support for the revision. The cost of tooling, and producing a small run will not be very large, but it will exceed what I am currently willing to invest personally.

If I cannot find a dozen people who NEED the extension (installed with the JR between the cone and retaining nut), AND enough support to make the effort worthwhile I see no reason to make any changes whatsoever. The wire is inexpensive, and functional. Installing the JR between the bearing cone and retaining nut costs nothing but requires familiarity with bicycle tools and adjustments.

Your input would be greatly appreciated.

Please send a photo of your current installation if you are interested in testing one when they become available.

If you think the JR is fine in its present form, let us know that too. We do not receive much in the way of feedback, positive or negative.

Best regards,
The Jonescounter JR team
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Tom (& Pete): We've measured over 100 courses using the current (wired) JR without incident. I see no reason to redesign anything, especially if the redesign costs. The wire solution is inelegant but VERY practical! However, if you need testers, The Guido Brothers volunteer. It seems that new course measurements are way down in 2017. We've done about 1/3 of what we did in 2016 at this time (11 vs. 29).
Sales are down here too. Hope things pick up for everybody's sake.

I've got a solution that works with the new chassis.

If you want your tang to be longer than anyone's in the business, you can do it with an anonymous trip to the hardware store. No longer will you worry about your tang being too short. If size matters, an investment of $15 will fix you right up. Long, and stiff enough for anyone. Cheaper than prescription medication, and no need to buy on-line.

Sorry, this is a DIY bodge. I'm not going to touch your tang. Nor will I go about touching the tangs on all my existing inventory. This would involve fiddling with my tang all day long, and I have better things to do. My hands would start to lose their grip after an hour or so. This is a delicate operation and the eyestrain would get to me. I might go blind.

You'll need to purchase a #39 drill bit, and a 3mm x 0.5mm tap. Ace carries these for less than $9.00 for both.

You'll also need to purchase a piece of extruded brass from a hobby store. 1/8" x 1/4" with 0.014 wall thickness. This is about $5. Or,
I can get these in 1" lengths cut-to-fit for $0.40 each if I buy 1,000. The wire is $0.10.
Drilling 1,000 holes in the right spot takes time. Any volunteers?

I'm using a Stainless Steel 3mm x 0.5mm x 10mm phillips-head screw because I have plenty. This is about as big a screw as can be accommodated. Also, it's the smallest tap available in the store I went to. All the components for a #4 were not available. You'll need the screw, and a lock nut. Washers are optional, but the SS ones will be better than galvanized. Figure $1.00,

The jaws of a standard tapping tool sold in the store are too large to hold the tap, and you will have to make your own, shown on the left. Or spend $15 for the proper tool in a specialty store.

You will need an old screwdriver handle, or just buy a cheap one and remove the blade. Clamp the blade in a vice, and pry the handle off with a crowbar.

Drive a #2 square-drive drywall, or deck screw into the handle. If you have a washer handy, go for it. The screw head fits quite nicely over the end of the tap and holds it securely. (shown)

Drill the tang with the #39 bit. Use lube when working with your tang. Be careful to keep the drill square to the face of the tang.

Tap the tang. Make sure the tap is square to the face of the tang. Again, use lube and you will have much better results.

Cut your brass to about 1" long. Plenty long to do the job. The piece you bought is 12" long, don't skimp.

Drill a hole about 3/16" from one end. I didn't measure, I marked and drilled.
Make sure it lines up with the hole in the tang.

The brass extrusion fits snugly on the tang with a fraction of a millimeter to spare.
There is a little wiggle, but I don't believe it's going anywhere.
Drive the 3mm x 0.5mm screw into the tang and secure it with a lock nut.

This is the only one I've made, and the only one I intend to make. It takes me longer to do this than it does to make the whole counter, plus there's extra costs involved because the taps won't last long drilling through stainless. If someone wants to take this on, I'll mail you 170 chassis to drill and tap. Tooling is on you. I'll put your initial after the JR. Heck, If I can add enough initials I may be able to keep this thing going.

If I have to do it myself it will have to be on an as-needed basis. If it costs $30, I bet the need isn't there. If ALL I have to do is drop a little bag, with a couple brass doo-dads, a screw, and a washer in my package instead of the wire I can keep the cost to what it is, and maybe a new measurer will buy it and not get all flustered right out of the gate.

I don't feel it's right for me to force the cost of a larger tang on those who have no need. Nor can I really tell if they need one. But if it costs very little, a few may appreciate the effort.

This counter has never been mounted. I'll see about breaking it in soon. The only problem I see with me testing it is all my bikes' hubs are quite satisfied by the tang.

And, like most of you, I've got an OLD tang.

So, if length is an issue you may opt for the $15 DIY upgrade. I'll be posting this one for sale on the website soon for $200 to see if it sells. YES, full price for the experimental prototype. Plus something for time, tooling, and materials for the extension. Sourcing and purchasing materials counts as time.

Comes with a lifetime warranty on the chassis. Not the extension.

Guaranteed to satisfy.

The Jonescounter team
Last edited by tomriegel

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